Easter saw us decamp to North Cornwall for the week, home to a magnificently rugged stretch of coastline haunted by phantom fishing boats, grail knights and sinister, hooded apparitions. I’d been there before, almost thirteen years ago and had always planned to return, almost succeeding on at least two occasions (the last time, in 2004, I’d planned to go to nearby Boscastle only for the town to be destroyed by a freak flood the weekend before I was due to go). This time we stayed in Port Isaac, a small fishing village which doubled as a remote Scottish island port in the Robert Holmes penned 1981 science fiction thriller The Nightmare Man. Although a working port the town is mostly given over to tourism now, but the oddly early Easter weekend meant not all the schools were broken up yet, allowing us to enjoy its narrow winding streets and warm, intimate pubs after a few long walks along the coastal path in relative peace.
A little further up the coast is Tintagel, reputedly the birthplace of King Arthur and home to an extraordinarily tacky Arthurian themed cottage industry, along with the truly spectacular ruins of a medieval Norman castle. We took a day out to stomp around the ruins whilst I related the story of Arthur’s conception to my long suffering girlfriend, leaning heavily on the version in John Boorman’s flawed masterpiece Excalibur. Afterwards we drove over to Boscastle, a strange place to find Austin Osman Spare’s scrying stone or Aleister Crowley’s favourite ceremonial chalice, but both are there, on display there at the superb Museum of Witchcraft. I was pleased to see the town has mostly picked itself up since the floods, although there’s still plenty of damage evident.
We also visited Padstow for a day, a fishing port probably most associated in people’s minds with celebrity television chef Rick Stein, who owns a number of properties there. I was actually a little horrified as to the extent of Stein’s grip on the town, which was disappointing as I own a few of his books and feel slightly soiled by association now. Padstow retains its quaintness on account of the Doom Bar - a large sandbank which sits in the estuary just outside the harbour rendering it an unsuitable port for large shipping. The Doom Bar lends its name to a rather nice ale by the local Sharps brewery, and was supposedly created by a mermaid, who after being shot by a fisherman for spurning his advances consigned the port to centuries of economic mediocrity, which is a much more interesting thing to remember Padstow for than “Stein’s Shop”…
Managed to avoid reading anything degree related, instead devoting my time to Greenwitch, the third book in Susan Cooper’s The Dark is Rising sequence, and Peter Morville’s Ambient Findability, which wasn’t quite as exciting, but was certainly thought-provoking. Audio-visual entertainment on an evening came from my marvelous new Jeeves and Wooster DVD box set and Pete Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy.